Top Tips for Effective Orchid Display

Posted on August 29, 2010 by Matt Clarke





Your Orchid Type

Orchid display depends upon the type of orchid you are growing, epiphytes for example are naturally found growing on trees and can look stunning mounted on similar materials indoors. Terrestrial orchid display on the other hand requires you to keep your orchids potted in soil, but don’t feel that this is in any way a lesser option as these types of orchids can look just as stunning as their epiphytic cousins with as many display options available.

Potted Orchids

When you choose to display your orchids in pots it’s important to note that this is an unnatural growing environment for most orchids as the majority of wild orchids are epiphytic. To avoid damaging your orchid remember.

  • Use an orchid potting media. Their roots are designed to breathe and absorb water quickly. They are used to being soaked followed by periods of drying, soil will retain to much moisture and prevent air flow around the roots. Good potting media matching your orchids requirements should allow plenty of drainage and airflow.
  • Allow for proper drainage. The display pots themselves should allow water to drain quickly. You don’t want your orchids roots to sit in water for lengthy periods of time.
  • The conditions of the orchids roots will give you an indication of how healthy your plant is. You can use a clear plastic pot to give you a good view of the roots condition.

Where you choose to locate your orchid display will have a bearing on its health. If it’s growing well in one area make sure you can match the conditions in your new display. As long as you take these things into account you will be able to display your orchid effectively and keep it looking beautifully healthy too.

Mounted Orchids

Common epiphytic orchids include Cattleyas, Vandas, Phalaenopsis and Dendrobiums and can naturally be found clinging to trees, nestled in the crook of a branch or attached to other craggy surfaces that will allow the orchid to get a foothold. These conditions leave the orchids roots exposed allowing for better air flow in their humid environments.

You can simulate these conditions quite easily for free or using specialist display materials such as cork bark or slatted plaques. You’ll find their roots flatten to the display surface over time compared with the rounded shape they have when potted, don’t worry this is natural.

If you choose this method of orchid display then there are a few things you can do to help your orchid along.

  • Make sure the display material has an uneven surface for roots to grasp.
  • Secure your orchid to the surface for the first year until it has gained a foothold. This can be done with fishing line, string or glue, be sure not to damage the roots though. I prefer fishing line as it’s less visible than string but still easy to remove.

Once your orchid has taken hold the finished display can look stunning.

Wedding Orchids

You’ll often see orchids displayed at weddings and other similar social functions where their elegant flowers and wide choice of colors and delicate blooms make them a popular flower choice for such events. Their displays are mostly pure decoration and not ideal growing conditions. Phalaenopsis and Dendrobiums are two popular species and orchids with white flowers are the obvious choice for weddings although I’ve seen plenty of other colors used effectively also.

Table displays often use cut flowers placed in decorative vases, this avoids visible potting media but this could be easily disguised with a good choice of pot or covered with decorative stones or moss placed around the surface or around the inside of a clear container.

Displaying orchids is as much about imagination as it is about the materials you have available. Learning how to display orchids is simply a matter of trial and error so why not go ahead and try something new.

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Spotting Common Orchid Problems

Posted on August 28, 2010 by Matt Clarke





Environmental Problems

Yellowing leaves: This is natural on older leaves before they die and drop off but if this is happening to younger leaves it may be an indication of several problems, over watering, under feeding or too much direct sunlight. You’ll probably have a good idea of which is most likely.

Over watering will cause your orchids roots to rot and die off, check that your pot has adequate drainage, check the potting media. Decaying potting media may prevent proper drainage and should be changed. Allow your orchids roots time to dry completely before watering them again.

If the younger leaves are developing abnormally or are mottled before turning completely yellow this may be a sign of under feeding. Buy some specialist orchid fertiliser or check that your existing fertiliser contains the proper nutrients and trace elements.

Strong direct sunlight is not good for your orchids and may cause the leaves to burn even in small amounts you can use frosted glass or net curtains to diffuse strong sunlight or if possible move your orchid out of direct sunlight.

Brown or Dying Leaf Tips: Another indication of over feeding your orchid, increase the periods of time between feeding your orchid and check the fertiliser is correctly balanced for orchids.

Limp Leaves: This can be caused by root loss through over watering, decaying potting media or that the pot is too large. Check your orchids roots, dying roots will be soft or mushy to the touch. Make sure roots are allowed adequate time to drain between watering. Decaying media should be changed as this provides a good environment for bacteria to grow and damage your orchids roots. Your orchid should be also quite tightly potted.

Orchid Not Blooming: Only mature plants should bloom. Once again, check that your orchid is not being over watered or overfed. Check the light level your orchid receives, too much and the leaves may begin to yellow and too little and they may turn darker. The night time temperature difference may also be a problem.

Orchid Fungus and Diseases

Fungal infections often suggest that the plant is already in a weakened state possibly due to low temperatures or damage. Try to maintain a good indoor temperature (between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day) if you live in a cold climate. Avoid watering or misting your plant with cold water and check for draughts, open windows and air conditioning could be the cause especially in an office environment. Try to avoid cuts and clean any that do occur, you can do this simply with an application of sulphur or cinnamon powder to the damaged area to seal the wound.

You can treat infected areas with a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution which you can purchase at most chemists or pharmacies. Spray over the whole plant or apply directly to the infected area.

Common Orchid Pests

Many problem orchid pests are attracted to rotted potting media and can be prevented by simply re-potting your orchid when it’s required. Many of these cause relatively little harm to your orchids and feed mostly on decaying material.

Aphids: Are a common house plant pest and are by no means limited to just orchids. They will attack new growth where the surface is thin and tender enough to allow them to feed. Aphids are easy enough to control with general insecticides.

Slugs and snails: Again these are common variety house plant pests and can hide well in potting media, appearing at night when they will chew on leaves and stems. The can usually be detected by the shiny trails they leave. Check your potting media, they are large enough to be removed by hand but they can be easy to missed, change the media if necessary.

Mealy bugs: Appear as a whitish cotton like mass and can be easily confused with Orchid Scale, but treatment is similar. Application of an insecticide over the recommended course of time should kill them but due to a long incubation period (up to 6 months) they can reappear and several courses may be required in the long run. An oil based solution can also be used to kill active bugs as it blocks their airways. Changing your orchids potting media is also advisable. When applying insecticide be sure to coat both sides of the leaves.

You’ll find most orchid problems can be solved and you’ll avoid the majority with proper care and attention.

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Growing and Caring for Your Orchids

Posted on August 27, 2010 by Matt Clarke





For a long time now it’s been the commonly held belief that growing and looking after orchids was complicated or reserved for the wealthy. However, this is far from the truth and with over 25,000 species and considerably more than 100,000 hybrid varieties, it is well within anyone’s ability to find an orchid that will match their budget, lifestyle and horticultural skill level.

Learning about your orchid

The majority of orchids require no more effort to look after than any other garden and indoor plants. Although, there are several orchids that do require special attention. Step one in orchid care should always be to research your plants individual requirements before you can expect to achieve perfect results.

Few plants are as rewarding to look after and as capable of producing such extraordinarily beautiful and delicate blooms. One of many reasons why orchids have become so popular . Learn how to care for your orchid correctly and you can expect it remain as healthy and beautiful as when you first bought it.

There’s a good chance that the orchid you bought or received is a Phaleanopsis, a popular genera or type of orchid, usually white or purple, that is popular because it is easier to look after than a lot of the less common varieties.

Blooming

If you look after it right your orchid can bloom for around three months. If keeping the orchid indoors you should place it close by a window where it will be able to receive sunlight for as long as possible throughout the day, but avoid the harsh midday sun. For this reason, rooms with an east facing window are an excellent position for your orchid.

Natural and Artificial Lighting

If you are short on ideal places to put your orchid you can replace natural sunlight with a fluorescent lamp or grow light. This should be placed about a foot above your orchid’s flowers and you need to be careful to keep its exposure limited to ordinary daylight hours.

Orchids do best in between temperatures of 13 degrees Celsius (55 degrees Fahrenheit) and 27 degrees Celsius (80 degrees Fahrenheit). If the temperature exceeds this then your orchid can begin to loose its buds or may stop flowering altogether.

Keeping the flower moist is also very important but you must make sure not to over water the roots as this can kill your blooms. Aim to water the orchid properly once every two weeks or place it into a water tray to keep the air surrounding it humid, but do not allow the roots to come into contact with the water in the tray or it will constantly be absorbing too much water.

One good tip to remember is to fertilize your orchid before it blooms to help keep your orchid flowering for the maximum amount of time. After it has flowered you no longer need to fertilize it.

One last tip I can give you to maximize the lifespan of your blooms is careful pruning of your orchid whilst it is in bloom, you should then find you get a second set of flowers developing.

With careful attention you will have an orchid that will continue to give you a rich, full bloom throughout the entire season.

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Understanding Basic Orchid Supplies

Posted on August 26, 2010 by Matt Clarke





There are many orchid supplies you can purchase or make yourself to fulfil a wide range of requirements that your orchids may have. The list can be a little overwhelming if you’re new to growing orchids and can put some off, making it seem overly complicated or expensive to grow orchids, but this is not the case. Below I’ve put together a small list of the more basic orchid supplies you may need and details of why you may or may not need them.

Potting media

If you’re planning on growing your orchids in pots then a good potting media is important, soil or compost will not do the job. Orchids typically require good drainage and airflow around their roots otherwise they will die off and soil will retain too much moisture. A little research into your orchid type will allow you to match it’s requirements to a good potting media.

Common potting mediums include, potting bark such as Pine Bark, New Zealand or Chilean Sphagnum Moss, Red Wood Fibre and Coconut Husk. Ideally you want a potting media or mix that does not easily compact that will consistently allow good drainage and airflow over time but also one that can retain some moisture and nutrients. Organic potting mediums will gradually decay over time compacting, reducing drainage and providing an excellent environment for bacteria and other pests so it’s important to keep an eye on the situation.

Orchid Pots

Once again adequate drainage is an important factor here so your pots should allow plenty of drainage and airflow while still holding your potting media firmly in place. Orchids prefer to be tightly potted compared with many other houseplants so be sure to use the correct size of pot. If your orchids roots are growing out and over the pot it’s time to repot your orchid before the roots get a good grip as this will make it more difficult to repot without damaging them.

Orchids roots are a good indicator of the health of your plant, healthy roots will be firm to the touch, dying roots can be a sign of several problems and will be soft or mushy to the touch. You can purchase clear pots which will give you a good view of your orchids roots and give you a hand spotting any problem that may be occuring.

Orchid Fertilizer

Your orchid will require periodic feeding, a bit of research into your orchid will tell you how much and how frequently this should be done. It’s important to get the correct amount of nutrients and other trace elements for a happy healthy orchid so I recommend you buy specialist orchid fertilizer from a local garden centre.

Stakes

In some cases you may need these to provide support for your orchids stem, stakes are commonly either metal or bamboo. Bamboo may look more natural but metal has the advantage that it can be made into spirals or bent enabling you to wrap it around your orchid without the need for unsightly clips or ties. You can also use your stakes to label your orchids.

Spray Bottles

Orchids thrive in humid environments and a spray bottle will help you provide that for your orchid. Make sure that the spray comes out as a fine mist rather than droplets, water collecting on the orchids leaves can damage them and leave marks that won’t look good and may even cause damage. Pressurised spray bottle work well for this. It’s also worth noting that you should spray only with warm-ish water, if the temperature is too cold your orchid won’t like it, it can weaken the plant and make it more susceptible to problems such as fungal infections.

Orchid mounts

Most orchids are epiphytic which means that can live on other living things such as trees. This is different from parasitic as the do not feed off the nutrients in the tree but simply use it as a surface on which to grow. Mounting your orchid can in a lot of cases produce healthier orchids than growing them in pots.

Your orchid will require a rough or craggy surface on which to grow and you will need to find some way to secure the orchid in place until its roots have a good grip, this can be done with fishing line or string for example and may take around a year before you can remove the tie.

Humidity Trays

Orchids natural environments are typically tropical with fairly high humidity. You can increase the humidity level around your orchid without turning your house into a greenhouse simply and effectively by using a humidity tray.

You can buy various different types of humidity trays or construct your own. Sit your orchid on a tray filled with stones or a suitable grate and fill the tray with warm water nearly to the top. The stones or grating are there to keep your orchids roots out of direct contact with the water. The water will evaporate into the air increasing the humidity around your orchid.

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Orchid Information – Five Things You Should Know

Posted on August 25, 2010 by Matt Clarke





Orchids are my favourite house plant and indeed many other peoples too. They’ve gained in popularity hugely in recent years and for good reason. There are many varieties and species around, from the many naturally occurring species, to an ever increasing number of hybrid varieties. Contrary to popular belief they are really not that difficult to grow and look after either. With a little care and knowledge anyone can keep a beautiful, healthy orchid in almost any home environment.

Environments

Orchid requirements are simple and not much different to many other houseplants, water, light fertilizer and temperature are all simple factors that you can control with the proper understanding of your orchid species. For example, some orchids will thrive in cooler environments whilst others prefer temperatures around 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius).

Understandably it is far easier to select your species of orchid based on the environment you will be growing it in. Perhaps the easiest and most adaptable species is the Phalaenopsis orchids. The Phalaenopsis orchid will grow well in an indoor home or office environment and produces long lasting blooms, making it a popular choice for first time growers.

Blooms

Flowering time depends a lot on the species of orchid itself, the Phalaenopsis species for example will remain in bloom for two to three months from the time the first buds open. Compared to the Cattleyas species of orchid which may only flower for a month. Some species may flower only once in a year while others may have several blooms throughout and there are others that will flower all year round.

Making Scents

Another important reason that orchid popularity is increasing is down to their fragrance. Some varieties can be strongly scented whereas other orchids are far more subtle in their fragrance. The strength and scent varies greatly between species, from subtle to strong, flowery to fruity. One of the more remarkable things about these plants is that some species can produce wonderfully familiar scents like raspberry, coconut, citrus, lilac or in some cases even chocolate.

Potting

Bark is the preferred potting medium for orchids rather than soil, they may also thrive when grown in New Zealand Sphagnum Moss. The reason being that they require very good drainage and air circulation around the roots therefore they should also be grown in pots that assist in this process. Standard potting soil is not adequate for the job.

Your orchids should be watered sparingly, once or twice every couple of weeks and slightly more frequently during hot months. If you’ve chosen to plant your orchid in New Zealand Sphagnum Moss then they will require watering less often than if you are using bark. Once every seven to ten days should be adequate.

Lighting

Orchids are naturally found in tropical areas of the world and therefore receive plenty of both light and shade, long periods of sunlight that not too strong. I’ve found they do well sitting near an Eastern facing window.

A common symptom of over exposure to strong sunlight is a yellowing of the leaves. If you find this is happening to your orchid you should try to provide a little more shade for it. Yellowing of the leaves is also a side effect of under feeding, your orchid requires fertilizer roughly once every two weeks should be adequate. You can buy specialist orchid fertilizer from most local garden centres. Use a diluted solution and if the potting media is dry then don’t forget to water your orchid before feeding it.

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